How To Paper Piece Tutorial

I’m still enjoying fine tuning my paper piecing technique while making my scrappy basket blocks in 1930’s prints and I’m really please with how my baskets are turning out. Because of the frustration I experienced when I had attempted to learn how to paper piece I thought I’d put my talents into writing a tutorial on this method of quilting. My hope is to provide clear and concise instructions so others don’t experience the difficulties and frustrations I did.

You’ll first want to gather all of your supplies. These include:
1) small cutting mat
2) pressing surface
3) iron – set on dry heat
4) ruler – I chose to use a 6” x 12” because some of my seams are diagonal and long
5) rotary cutter
6) seam ripper
7) thread clippers
8) card stock card – I didn’t have an index card but a legal sized envelope worked great
9) size 14 needle
10) set your sewing machine for a straight stitch at a 1.5mm stitch length
11) copies of your paper pieced block printed on paper piecing paper – there are several brands to choose from; I selected one manufactured by Patchwork, it comes in a package of 100 sheets

I used a block drafted by Carol Doak and she provides recommended cutting dimensions for each piece required to complete the block. However, if you were to use a block where these dimensions were not provided, you could easily figure out this size yourself. Place your ruler onto your block to measure the piece. Measure the height and width of the piece and add ½” to each side. This is the dimension to use to cut your piece.

Because there are so many pieces, all a different size and many similar, organizing is a key to success. There are several good methods you could choose from but I decided to place my pieces into snack or sandwich sized Ziploc type bags with the piece number and dimensions written on the outside. I organized them in sequence on a baking sheet.


To begin, I placed piece #1 over piece 1 on my block pattern. I eyeballed ¼” seam over the stitching line for piece #2 on the wrong side of the block. I know this seems backwards, but it will work out. I promise.

I then placed piece #2, right sides together, edges matching, onto piece #1

By holding both pieces securely in place, I flipped the pattern over to the printed side and lined up my needle to the line between piece #1 and piece #2. With the needle in the down position, I lift up the pattern to verify my pattern pieces have not shifted and the edges are meeting.

Make sure you have shortened your stitch length to 1.5mm before you begin stitching. You will want to backstitch 2 or 3 stitches at the beginning and ending of each seam.



After stitching the first two pieces I placed the edge of the envelope / index card to the stitching line.

Fold the pattern paper over and crease the paper.


Trim the seam allowance to ¼”.

Fold the pattern paper back and press your seam.

You could finger press your seam but I found I had better results when I pressed with the iron. This is the perfect time to use that small iron you purchased for sew-ins or classes.

Initially, I was told to trim my seam allowances after I had sewn the seam. However, as I progressed in perfecting my paper piecing technique, I learned it worked better for me to trim the remaining seam allowances before I stitched the seam. (I will show why I came to this conclusion a little later.) With this mind, place the envelope / index card edge onto your stitching line for piece #3 and trim the seam to ¼”.

Place piece #3, right sides together with the edge centered on the stitching line.

Place your needle in the down position onto the stitching line.

Lift the pattern paper to verify the pieces have not shifted and the edges line up. Stitch seam and press.

If you turn your pattern paper over to the printed side you will see where each seam begins and ends.

Place your envelope / index card onto the stitching line for piece #4 and fold the pattern paper back. Because the connecting stitching lines have been backstitched you’ll need to carefully pull the paper back to ‘pop’ a couple of stitches so you can fold on the stitching line. Trim to a ¼” seam.

Having trimmed the seam before stitching allows you to see where to place the next piece more clearly while giving you a placement line for the piece. This is especially helpful for odd shaped pieces.

Center the fabric for piece #4 over the stitching line lining up the edges of the pieces. Lining up the edges will ensure a ¼” seam. Notice this piece is triangular. By placing the long side of the triangle on the long side of the triangle on the pattern piece will make certain the piece will cover the shape properly.

Holding the pieces securely, flip the pattern to the printed side. With the needle in the down position, verify the piece has not shift and the edges are lined up. Stitch the seam making certain to backstitch at the beginning and ending of the seam. After sewing the seam, verify you have maintained a ¼” seam and press.

Using the same method as before, place the edge of the envelope / index card on the stitching line for piece #5 and trim to a ¼” seam allowance.

Centering piece #5 on the stitching line, holding onto the pieces securely while flipping the pattern over to the printed side. Verify the pieces have not shifted before stitching the seam line.

Verify your ¼” seam and press.

Using the same method for trimming seam allowance, trim the seam allowance for piece #6.

As you can see from the picture, piece #6 is another triangular shape and the long edge is at a different angle than for pieces #4 and #5.

Matching the long side of the triangle, verify you have proper placement of the piece to ensure coverage.

Center piece #6 while lining up the edges.

Securely hold the pieces together while flipping to the print side of the pattern. With the needle in the down position, verify the pieces have not shifted and the edges are lined up.

Stitch the seam for piece #6.

Verify you have maintained the ¼” seam allowance and press.

Verify there is adequate coverage on all seam lines for piece #6.

Piece #7 is the same shape as piece #6.

Trim the seam allowance for piece #7 as shown for piece #6. Line up the piece to ensure coverage.

Center the piece with the stitching line and line up the edges.

Holding the pieces securely, flip to the printed side and verify the pieces have not shifted and the edges line up.

Stitch the seam.

Verify you have the ¼” seam allowance and press.

Confirm there is at least ¼” seam allowance for all sides.

All the seams have been pressed.

Place the edge of the envelope / index card on the stitching line for piece #8.

Trim to a ¼” seam allowance.

Trimming the seam first allows full view of the area for piece #8.

Center the piece and line up the edges for piece #8.

Holding securely, flip the pattern to the printed side, confirm the pieces have not shifted and stitch the seam. Verify you have maintained a ¼” seam and press.

Trim the seam allowance to ¼” for piece #9.

Trimming to the ¼” seam makes the stitching lines for piece #9 visible for easier placement of the fabric.

Center the fabric for piece #9 on the stitching line and line up the edges.

Hold the pieces securely as while flipping over to the printed side of the pattern. With the needle in the needle down position, verify the pieces have not shifted and the edges are lined up. Stitch the seam, confirm the ¼” seam allowance has been maintained, and press.

Confirm there is adequate seam allowance on all sides of the piece.

Trim the seam allowance for piece #10, line up the fabric, flip to the printed side holding the pieces securely, and stitch.

Verify the ¼” seam allowance and press.

Trim the seam allowance for piece #11. Center the fabric on the stitching line, hold the pieces securely and flip to printed side. Stitch, confirm ¼” seam allowance, and press.

Place the edge of the envelope / index card on the stitching line for piece #12.

Fold the pattern paper over to expose the seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance to a ¼”.

This is another instance where if the seam allowance was not trimmed prior to stitching, it would be very difficult to line up the fabric and ensure complete coverage.

Center the fabric on the stitching line, hold securely and flip to printed side, verify pieces have not shifted, stitch seam and press.

Center piece #12 and line up the edges, hold the pieces securely and flip to printed side, verify pieces have not shifted, stitch seam and press.

Using the same method as before, trim the seam allowance to ¼” for piece #13. Center the fabric over the stitching line, hold pieces securely and flip to printed side.

Verify the pieces have not shifted and stitch seam.

Press seam.

Trim the seam allowance for piece #14, line up the fabric, hold firmly and flip to printed side.

Confirm pieces have not shifted, stitch seam and press.

Pieces #15 and #16 are very small. For this reason, I trimmed the seam allowance to 1/8” instead of the standard ¼”.

Trimming both pieces to 1/8” will allow the ability to visually see the outline of the pieces for proper placement of the fabric.

Here is what the block looks like after trimming the seam allowance for both pieces.

Here is a shot of the small triangle for pieces #15 and #16.

Center the fabric piece on the seam, hold firmly and flip to the printed side of the pattern, and confirm the pieces have not shifted.

Stitch the seam and press.

Confirm there is adequate seam allowance for all sides of the piece.

Follow the same process for sewing piece #16.

Trim the seam allowance for piece #17. Center the fabric on the stitch line.

Hold the pieces securely, flip to the printed side of the pattern piece, verify the pieces have not shifted, and stitch the seam.

Press the seam and confirm fabric adequately covers the pattern piece.

Trim the seam allowance for piece #18, center the fabric over the pattern piece, hold pieces securely and flip to printed side.

Verify the pieces have not shifted and stitch seam.

Press seam.

Follow the same process for stitching pieces #19 and #20.

Turn the pattern over to the printed side. The pattern has an outline that runs the circumference of the block. The line is the seam line for assembling the blocks and it ensures a ¼” seam allowance. But there is another purpose too.

By stitching around the block using this outline as a guide, the block will retain its shape and size until it is stitched to another block or sashing.

I used the outline as a guide and placed my seam just to the right of the outline. This will guarantee this seam will not be visible when I assemble my blocks.

Next, trim to a ¼” seam allowance on all four sides of the block.

All of the sides have been trimmed to ¼”.

Here is the completed block. At the point when I’m ready to assemble the blocks together, the blocks will be stitched together before the paper is removed.

If anyone is interested, I do have a pdf version of this tutorial. Just make a note in your comment and I’ll send it to you. Remember, I will need your email address to send it, so if you’re set as a no-reply response, you will need to include your email address in your comment. Thanks!